What
Type of Board Works Best at Sunset?
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Talk
about a loaded question! No matter how I answer it, at least one
surfer will strongly disagree. Some believe that the responsiveness
and agility a shortboard affords is the only way to truly experience
a wave. Others maintain that the smooth glide of a longboard is
the key to achieving that bliss-like harmony of surfer and sea.
Some claim that a tri-fin setup is essential for full performance.
Others remain fiercely loyal to the single fin configuration,
and even deride side-fins as "training skags." Some
favor new high-tech materials such as epoxy boards and carbon
fins. Others dismiss each innovation as pure bunk (although I
don't see many of them riding 80-pound redwood planks).
The
bottom line, of course, is that there is no single "best"
board. It all depends on your skill level, your objectives, and
the conditions where you are surfing. Nonetheless, I believe it
is possible to make some very basic observations to help guide
and inform your decisions about what kind of board(s) to use at
Sunset.
First
of all, if you are a beginner and you just want to learn to stand
up on a wave, you will have an easier time starting on a longboard.
This is because longboards can get you into a wave earlier and
with less paddling, allowing you to experience more time on the
face where you can really learn. The choice between single fin
and tri-fin is not so important at the beginning stage, but you
do want to make sure you pick a board with sufficient buoyancy
for your weight. A male of average weight and height will probably
find a 9'6" board that is 3" thick and at least 22.5"
wide (in mid-section) to be adequate. Adjust accordingly if you
are lighter or heavier.
As
your skill level improves, you will have to decide what kind of
surfing experience you seek. Watch some classic surf videos of
longboarding (such as "Endless Summer") and shortboarding
(such as "The September Sessions") so you can decide
what style most resonates with you. One way to compare the two
approaches (and this is overly-simplistic, I know) is that longboarders
aim to follow a line in the wave that holistically conforms with
its intrinsic essence. Shortboarders, in contrast, often attempt
to shape the wave by their actions so that it allows them to accomplish
an objective of their own making, such as an aerial or an off-the-lip.
Another overly-simplistic differentiation is that longboarders
tend to work through a wave by adjusting their foot positioning
on their boards, whereas shortboards work through a wave by adjusting
their boards' position on the face of the wave. Of course, in
the real world, your surfing style will encompass many different
elements -- these distinctions merely reflect one's emphasis.
Both
approaches can be incredibly fun. You don't have to commit solely
to one or the other. Many surfers have multiple boards of different
types. On any given day, Sunset may be better suited to one type
or another. As a general rule, however, longboarders do generally
get more waves and longer rides at Sunset. Keep in mind, Sunset
tends to be a small, mushy wave. I would say that 90% of the time,
the waves at Sunset are 2-3 feet or smaller. Because shortboards
have less planing surface, they tend to flounder on weak, small
waves and do better on bigger waves with more forward thrust.
In contrast, even a knee-high wave with shape can be fun on a
longboard. Furthermore, Sunset waves tend to be quite sectiony.
A longboard often allows you to project through a section of whitewater
and then return to riding a nice, clean face. This can be accomplished
on a shortboard, but it takes greater skill and more self-generated
energy to propel oneself through the section. (The smaller planing
surface of shortboards mean that their momentum dissipates more
rapidly.) On the other hand, when Sunset is pumping and the waves
are head-higher or larger, a shortboarder can pull off turns,
get deep in the pocket, and generate blazing speeds that would
be impossible with a longboard.
This
brings me to the question of tri-fins versus a single fin. While
on shortboards, the tri-fin setup has pretty much taken over,
on longboards there is still a strong contingency of loyal fans
of the single fin camp. Most would agree that a single fin produces
smoother, more graceful turning. It also tends to be more conducive
to noseriding. On the other hand, a single fin is harder to
turn except from the "sweet spot" towards the rear of the board, so more footwork is required to get the most from the board. Likewise, a single fin is harder to turn until you reach the bottom of a wave (thus, the classic bottom-turn
so characteristic of longboards). A tri-fin board will allow you
to work a wave more aggressively, carving up and down the face,
whereas a single fin is more about locking into that perfect trim
position and advancing to the nose.
In
all honesty, Sunset is rarely very good for noseriding, at least
not in the way that Malibu is. In fact, the Sunset wave is so
variable and unpredictable that it is almost the polar opposite
of Malibu's machine-like precision. This does not mean, as so
many Malibu-lovers assume, that the Sunset wave is crap. I would
assert that Sunset can produce waves of possibly equivalent merit
to Malibu's, though with much less frequency. It is hard to verbalize
the difference, but a Sunset wave at its prime can present more
of a glassy, pristine, and workable face than the mold-like Malibu
wave. And here is where my key point arises: these pristine Sunset
waves (especially when initiated from the point) often demand
an extremely quick, cranking turn from the take-off in order to
beat the section and develop the speed necesary to get into all
this face. Such an extreme turn can be harder to execute
if you are riding a single-fin board. The tri-fin offers the advantage
of being able to more easily commence the turn from the moment
of take-off, as well as to project one's forward energy. This
means that you are likely to enjoy more of these rare, beautiful
waves on a tri-fin.
Finally,
there is the element of crowds to consider. Whenever a sizeable
swell hits Sunset, you can expect large quantities of surfers
in the water. Often, the congestion is so heavy that the best
waves are rendered unrideable because a surfer cannot stay on
the wave without colliding into one or more of the sitting ducks
in the line-up (many who inexplicably make no effort to paddle
out of the way.) A shortboard may offer the advantage of being
more maneuverable through this obstacle course. On the other hand,
longboarders will inevitably cluster at the furthest out spot
where the waves first peak. If the waves are lined up neatly and
consistently, this phenonmena can be extremely irritating for
shortboarders, as there will be no way for them to catch one of
these waves without dropping in a longboarder who has picked it
off further out. This is not necessarily an argument for joining
the legions of longboarders at Sunset, but it is something to
be aware of when deciding what type of board you want to buy.
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