When
Does it Get Good at Sunset?
|
I'm
afraid I can't answer this question with any great precision.
In fact, the reason that Sunset ever gets any good is partly due
to the fact that you can never know for sure when it is
going to get good. But I don't expect that to make any sense to
you, at least not without spending a few paragraphs on the subject.
For more elaboration, see What
Makes Sunset Special?
Instead,
I will just try to explain some of the factors that come into
play in determining whether or not Sunset produces decent waves.
In simplest terms, there are five primary factors that determine
the conditions at Sunset: swell, tide, wind, current, and sand
buildup. Of course, these factors are interrelated, but we will
try to look at each of them one at a time. (For more in-depth
analysis of what creates waves, check out
Sean Collins' Surfology 101 article.)
Swell
is characterized by three components: period, height, and direction.
The swell period is simply the time between successive wave crests
as they pass a stationary point on the ocean surface. As waves
get bigger (from wind), they transfer energy more deeply into
the ocean and so the swell period lengthens. That is why forecasters
get excited when a swell is approaching with a long period - it
means the waves could become sizable by the time they reach shallow
water and start shoaling (lift upward).
Needless
to say, the greater the height of the waves, the better Sunset
gets. You probably won't be writing home to mom unless the swell
is at least head-high or bigger. On the other hand, during those
extremely rare days when double-overhead sets are pounding, the
shape can become quite top-to-bottom. You may get some hair-raising
takeoffs (maybe even a tube?), but probably not as long rides.
I should also mention that some of my most memorable sessions
at Sunset were on waves that were barely waist-high, but with
perfect off-shore conditions. In other words, Sunset can be quite
fun at any swell height from 2-3 feet and up.
When
it comes to direction, fortunately, Sunset can take anything from
a south to a northwest swell. Remember, direction refers to which
way the swell is coming from, not the direction it is heading.
You can describe more precise swell directions in degrees, with
north at 0 or 360 degrees, east at 90 degrees, south at 180 degrees
and west at 270 degrees. Thus, a northwest swell refers to anything
between 270 and 360 degrees. If you look at the map of Sunset,
you can see that the break is most suited for a west or northwest
swell, especially if you like long rides from the point to the
steps. If there is too much north in the swell (any angle steeper
than 290 degrees), it will not get picked up very well, if at
all. Alternatively, when we have a south swell, it can be blocked
and dissipated by Catalina and other land masses. Ideally, Sunset
wants some west; whether it is a southwest swell or a northwest
swell is not so crucial. With south swells, the rides are not
usually quite as long at Sunset, but the shape can be just as
good (sometimes better).
As
a minor side note, I should point out that Sunset can sometimes
pick up a bit of reflective energy, even when the swell direction
is wrong. For instance, there can be days when absolutely nothing
is breaking from El Porto to County line, yet if you are patient
at Sunset you can pluck off a shoulder-high or bigger set that
seems to come from out of nowhere. It takes patience, but for
the faithful devotees, Sunset can deliver fun surprises when you
least expect it.
On
the negative side of the equation, even if the swell is perfect,
Sunset will not necessarily be producing surfable waves. The reason
is that one or more of the other factors can work against our
modest break. Probably the biggest session-ruiner at Sunset is
the tide. Unless a huge swell is running, Sunset does not really
work well at any tide above 3.5 feet. The optimum tide level seems
to be between 0 and 2.0 feet, although others may debate this
range. Whatever the exact optimum range is, I feel certain that
no one will dispute that it is quite narrow. This is why you can't
just "show up" at Sunset and expect to be able to surf,
whereas you could pull off this behavior at Malibu in the summer.
The
tide dependency at Sunset is largely due to the rock berm that
lines the shore. As the tide rises, the water bounces off the
berm and interferes with the shape of the wave. A similar problem
does not exist at Topanga or Malibu, which is why the acceptable
tidal range is wider. To solve the problem, I would recommend
digging up the Pacific Coast Highway and letting a natural sand
bottom form all the way to the bluffs. Let me know if any of you
have a few spare earth-moving machines!
Keep
in mind, it is not just the tide level that matters, but also
whether the tide is rising or receding, and how big the swing
is between low and high. For instance, if a swell is newly arriving,
a strong tidal swing from low to high will sometimes help to pull
in the waves (until the tide gets too high to work at Sunset).
Alternatively, if you sit out in the water as low tide approaches,
you will often notice a "doldrum period" where the ocean
seems to go almost flat until the tide begins to rise again. This
is especially true when the low tides are in the minus range.
Wind
is the next wildcard we need to consider at Sunset. As with most
breaks, the ideal wind is either offshore (wind blowing from inland
to ocean) or totally calm. Luckily, Sunset is well-situated to
take advantage of the Santa Ana winds. When they blow, they can
produce perfect offshore conditions where the waves feel like
they are propped up forever. Sometimes the Santa Anas can be so
strong that it is a challenge to actually drop into a wave, and
once you are up, the wind can actually blow you off the face.
I have found that in these conditions, it is best to take advantage
of some of the shelter offered by the point. (The hardest place
to drop in on a strong offshore day is usually in front of the
steps.) Sadly, we get very few good offshore days because they
require the overlapping of two already infrequent events: 1) Santa
Ana winds and 2) a decent swell.
The
next best thing we can hope for is a gentle or non-existent wind.
Sunset is rarely windy in the morning, so that is when it usually
offers the best shape. Typically, Sunset starts to get blown out
(with onshore winds) around noon, especially in the summer. It
can occasionally clean up again in the late afternoon. The real
magic takes place on those glassy days when there is a pressure
system off the coast that keeps the air still and the texture
of the water perfectly smooth. On such days, it is not uncommon
for Sunset to stay glassy all day long. That's when you realize
how lucky you are to be in California no other coastline
in the world gets the right weather for this perfect glass.
Yet
another factor to consider when evaluating Sunset is the current.
I don't claim to understand this very well, but I do know an undesirable
current direction can mess up what are otherwise good conditions.
Especially in stormy weather, a strong side current can develop
that creates backwash or impedes the shape of the waves. Riptides
are not too common at Sunset, but you do need to watch out for
them and remember to paddle parallel to the shore if you feel
you are getting sucked out to sea.
The
final factor of concern is the shape of the bottom at Sunset.
This is constantly changing due to shifting sands. The shape of
a wave is a reflection of the shallow floor, so ideally we would
like a smooth, gradually sloping bottom. For peaky waves, it helps
to have spots that are shallower (like the rock at the point)
to jack up the wave a bit. The outer reef at Sunset is pretty
stationary, so that does not change much, but most waves are nor
big enough to break that far out. For smaller swells, the sand
on the bottom does have an effect. I have noticed that strong
northwest swells seem to bring sand and fill in the rocky areas.
Strong south swells seem to pull away the sand. This is why you
often find that Sunset is rockier in the summer, with less beach
and a less smooth of a bottom.
In
summary, the waves get best at Sunset when the five primary factors
are as follows:
1)
Swell is 2-3 feet or bigger and running anywhere from southwest
to northwest (180 to 290 degrees).
2) Tide is less than 2 feet (unless double overhead sets). 3) Wind is calm or offshore. 4) Current is minimal (no strong sideshores). 5) Bottom is sandy. |


